Thursday, October 9, 2014

Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin c1934

Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin: launched in 1934, and an eau de toilette was released in 1937.

The original fragrance was available in: parfum, parfum de toilette, eau de toilette, eau de cologne, bath oil, powder, soap.



From Lubin:
"Nuit de Longchamp has graced the shoulders of elegant women since 1934, like a magnificent garden of white flowers blooming in the twilight. From the African shores of the Mediterranean and the Ottoman gardens, only the most precious flowers and balsams are used."

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was originally classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women with a dominant notes of heady jasmine, rose and lilacs on a woodsy sandalwood base. A complex floral bouquet with sophisticated lily undertones.
  • Top notes: syringa, genet, aldehydes, bergamot, lilac, violet, clove, lavender, narcissus, lily of the valley
  • Middle notes: lily, honeysuckle, fern, hawthorn, tuberose, jasmine, rose, heliotrope, iris, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, patchouli, lavender
  • Base notes: oak, ambergris, benzoin, musk, vanilla, labdanum, tonka bean, sandalwood and oakmoss
 


L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin: Burning through the flame of the projectors, the plume of water jets has stopped in the bottle, reminding us of the famous nights of Paris with a rosé chypre full of elegance and enchantment ."
Combat, 1954:
"Eau Nuit de Longchamp de Lubin: The subtle lavender musk given off by the lichens collected on the oak trees marvelously marries its resinous aroma with jasmine and rose, as well as the bergamot in the eau de cologne, so as not to to be more than a diffuse base in this odor which bears the name of a Parisian parade of yesterday. Around the immense crown of an electric green, where the spotlights plucked the violent flowers of the jockeys' jerseys, the women in queens' long coats, must have smelled like that."


Combat, 1955:
"Nuit de Longchamp (perfumed cologne) by Lubin. The feigned lavender musk that emerges from the lichens torn from the oaks combines its resinous aroma with lily of the valley and rose, with a hint of bergamot, to revive the memory of the immense crown of an electric green, where the spotlights veiled the little jockeys in bloom, for the delight of the women in queen's coats."


Fodor's France, 1951:
"Lubin, 11, Rue Royale. "Envie" — fresh and sharp, for the young and modern ; "Fumee" — woodsy, for sports ; "Nuit de Longchamp" — elegant, for evening. Molinard, 21, rue Royale. "Le Baiser du Faune" — -warm, flowery ; "Les Iles d'or"— jasmine base"


Bottles:


The original parfum was presented in a bottle whose design is attributed to Pierre d’Avesn and made by Verrières Brosse.


In the 1960s-1970s, the toilet water was housed in a white opaline bottle decorated in toile de Jouy in blue or red enamel.


Fate of the Fragrance:


It may have been reformulated in 1956 to appeal to contemporary post-war tastes and a cologne was also released in that year.


Exclusively Yours, 1973:
"After an absence of 4 years, the fabled French fragrances of LUBIN have returned. Now residing in their many forms exclusively at Shaxted in Milwaukee. Welcome, the pure sophistication of Nuit de Longchamp Eau de Toilette in atomizer or splash."

Vintage versions of Nuit de Longchamp were discontinued in the late 1980s.

Relaunched in 2008 as a floral chypre eau de parfum, but had to be reformulated around 2009 to conform with IFRA regulations to exclude oakmoss and some other ingredients used in the original composition. The new version is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: Sicilian bergamot, Tunisian orange blossom, nutmeg, cardamom 
  • Middle notes: ylang-ylang, Turkish rose, jasmine, Florentine iris
  • Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, broom absolute, patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Tolu and Peruvian balsam, labdanum, oakmoss





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